#DOWNLOAD PHOTOSHOP ELEMENTS FOR MAC MANUAL#
How do you correct this in your wide angle shots? Elements does have lens adjustments, but it’s manual and not part of the RAW import. I have only had Elements for two months and now I am very disappointed. I reopened the raw file and eventually discovered that there are only three tabs in ACR for Elements and not the nine for Photoshop and crucially the Lens Correction tab is missing. What a bargain! I was quite happy with the basic adjusts, but the most noticeable difference between the two images was the curved edges caused by the barrel distortion, on the raw file in camera corrected on the jpg. The next few photoshop tutorials will go over some of the other Camera Raw options you get with Photoshop Elements. From that point on, you will only want to save a single JPEG. If you were to open up the image right now, you would have effectively converted it from RAW to a format that Adobe Photoshop Elements can use. Try to get this taken care of before you enter the post-processing phase. Once again, you can simply get more brightness from the camera itself if you just decrease the aperture or shutter speed. Lastly, brightness does exactly what you would expect it to do. I like tools like fill light and recovery because they do things the camera cannot do.
From my experience, I prefer not to use this slider because I would hope to have nailed the exposure in-camera. You can also slide it until you like what you see.
#DOWNLOAD PHOTOSHOP ELEMENTS FOR MAC PLUS#
If you want to expose one stop up or down, you can set the exposure to plus or minus one. Adobe tied it directly to exposure on your camera. The exposure slider works by moving the entire histogram either to the left or right. You can think of as the inverse of the fill light slider. The recovery slider shifts the entire histogram to the left, meaning it has a darkening effect. The rest of the settings are handy if you accidentally overexposed your image. Notice the difference in the sky when you use the fill light option. Take some time to play around with the fill light setting.
Anything greater than that, and the rest of the image starts to look hazy. This means the darker colors are being transformed into lighter variations.įor this photo, a fill light setting of 40 worked really well. Most of the colors will shift to the right while the far right end of the spectrum stays mostly in place. To confirm that this is actually happening, just watch your histogram as you slide this setting to the right. By turning up the fill light, you can brighten some of the blues in the sky without affecting the nice crisp definition in the snow. In a bid to keep some of the definition in the snow, I upped the aperture setting and doing so made the sky a nice dark blue. This image is a little dark because I had a few shots earlier that turned out too bright. Just open them up with the software, and you will get this import dialog. Your camera might create some other file type. Rest assured, you can expect quite a few more tutorials on Camera Raw in the next few months.īear in mind that there all kinds of different file formats for RAW camera data. The Adobe Camera RAW dialog box will open up, giving you a number of options to change your image before you import it. I never modify the JPEGs more than once because it tends to degrade the quality. This ensures they will never get corrupted. I always keep all of my RAW files in a separate folder, completely unmodified. The second reason has to do with processing.
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